Jan 082011

How to Wear Velvet

by Lesley Kennedy (Subscribe to Lesley Kennedy’s posts)
Posted Jan 3rd 2011 at 11:00AM  
From left, printed burned-out velvet at Anna Sui, red and ruffled at Zac Posen, and long and flowing at Ralph Lauren. Photos: Frazer Harrison, Getty Images for IMG; Stefan Gosatti, Getty Images for IMG; Fernanda Calfat, Getty Images for IMG

You don’t have to be in the holiday spirit to wear velvet. Dozens of designers — think Anna Sui, Alexander Wang, Zac Posen, Nanette Lepore and Ralph Lauren to name a few — sent the supersoft, luxe fabric down their runways.

“Velvet really speaks to luxury and it is just classically understated,” Gregg Andrews, fashion director at Nordstrom, tells StyleList. “It has this amazing plush texture to it, yet it’s not ostentatious. It has this lovely subtle sheen, but it doesn’t draw a whole lot of attention to itself.”

Stylist Bridgette Raes, author of “Style Rx: Dressing the Body You Have to Create the Body You Want,” agrees, saying velvet is dressy, but still looks warm and winter appropriate.

“The beauty of velvet is there really is something for everyone,” she tells StyleList. “It’s all in how you style it, the colors you choose and the silhouettes in which you choose to wear your velvet.”

Andrews says some people used to associate velvet with being very old-school, “a little bit Grandma.”

“But now, because it stretches, you can get great body-conscious cocktail dresses in velvet,” he says. “You can get all of these panne velvets and these crushed velvets that look really boho and have almost a hippie chic to them because they’re very soft, they’re very fluid. Velvet can be very sensual because of its tactile nature. … Velvet is not always a heavy upholstery fabric.”

So how do you make velvet look new and not like it belongs to Granny? We asked our experts to offer tips on what to wear the fabric with, how to accessorize it and how to make it look chic, not cheap.

Invest in a jacket: “Every woman should have a great velvet jacket in her wardrobe,” Andrews says. “She can wear it almost like a tuxedo jacket with a ruffled blouse or very crisp white shirt. But she can also take a velvet blazer and team it with jeans. … When you take velvet and you team it with denim or you team it with a menswear-inspired fabric like a tweed, it’s that high-low unexpected mix that makes it look really new.”

Beware of velvet pants: “Velvet pants are lovely, but you need to be careful about the friction caused between the legs when walking,” Raes says. “It can ruin the nap of the velvet.”

Beyond black: “Velvet is fantastic in rich gem tones,” Raes says. “This winter, with all the reds, plums and pinks, velvet is a perfect fabric for those classic brights.”

“This year, we saw a lot of steely gray velvet that looked really beautiful,” Andrews says. “When it’s in that gray tone, it almost has a metallic-like quality to it. Gray looked exceptionally new and really fresh. I can’t recall seeing gray velvet before. (Also look for) navy-blue velvet, velvet in a berry tone, in a wine or cranberry shade.”

Accessorize it: “I think velvet has a dressier, more refined look, so I love dressier, more vintage looking accessories,” Raes says. “Imagine a great string of pearls, some vintage Art Deco jewelry, big rings, marcasite and strands of long necklaces.”

“Velvet is rich and it makes a pretty strong statement on its own,” Andrews says. “So, a simple string of pearls, a simple pendant on a chain. Keep the accessories simple.”

Pair it with other fabrics: “We’re talking about a contrast, whether you’re wearing velvet in a new high-low way or you’re wearing it in a more traditional sense, where you’re teaming velvet with satin,” Andrews says. “Or you’re teaming it with something very delicate like lace, or transparent like an organza or a chiffon. You’re contrasting that thick, plush texture against something else, and that’s really what makes velvet work, whether you’re going to go more traditional or wear it in a new, more contemporary way.”

“I think silky, sinewy fabrics are pretty when worn with velvet, but velvet also looks great with jeans or tailored clothing,” Raes says. “Picture a tuxedo pant with a velvet blazer or a velvet skirt with a silky top, for example. Additionally, a great stand-alone velvet blazer can really elevate the look of a pair of jeans and a basic button-down shirt.”

Look luxe, not cheap: “What makes velvet rich is the pile — it’s the depth of that pile and how thick and how plush it is,” Andrews says. “It’s also how it feels to your hand. It should be very silky-smooth. You don’t want the backing of the fabric to feel stiff or coarse.”

“There is extremely expensive velvet and extremely cheap velvet,” Raes says. “Usually, very expensive velvet is made from cotton and very cheap velvet is made from rayon, along with varying qualities in between the two. This is not to say that you can only wear cotton velvet, but really look at your velvet, and if it looks cheap, then it will look cheap on your body, no matter what you do to it. … What you wear with your velvet is equally crucial. The worst thing you can do is choose a cheap velvet, in a cheap color, and then partner it with cheap accessories. You’re better off wearing something else.”

Thanks to AOL StyleList for the above article.
 
StitchWitch Fashion currently has panne velvet in stock in the following colors:  Navy Blue, Hunter Green, Royal Purple, Black, Wine, Christmas Red, Turquoise, Antique Gold, and a gorgeous burnout Royal Purple.  Let us create something for you.  Contact us for a specialized measurement form and to discuss your project.  Then you can show all your friends how to wear velvet!

Is it better to choose natural or synthetic fabric?  Which is more sustainable?  Well that depends.

First, let’s talk about the sustainability of natural fabrics.  Most people assume that natural fabrics are the obvious choice here.

 Cotton is one of the most unsustainably grown crops in the agricultural world.  They require a tremendous amount of irrigation in most of the places where they are grown.  And they also require large amounts of fertilizer as well as pesticide applications.  Add to that the amount of labor required to pick the cotton – almost all of which is done by hand.  Picking cotton is a difficult task.  The cotton balls are contained within a hard dried seed shell that has prickly outer curled leaves that are hard on hands and arms of the pickers.  Then the cotton must be put through a “gin” to remove the seeds, a carder to comb it into long fibers, then it is spun into thread and then woven into fabric.  All of this requires a lot of energy.

Cotton is best known for its ability to soak away perspiration and is great for hot weather and for light-weight garments.  New chemical treatments have rendered it easy-care with little to no ironing needed.  It is available in very lightweight fabrics like gauze to very heavy-weight fabrics including canvas and duck used in awnings and upholstery.

© Copyright Rudi Winter and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence

Wool comes from sheep, the sheep graze on pasture that for the most part can be rather not to the liking of most other grazing animals.  Sheep are chosen for that specific purpose.  They provide their coats kind of sustainably since they can be sheared yearly.  The wool is washed, carded, spun into thread and then woven into fabric.

Wool is fairly water resistant and very heat-conserving.  It is very useful in warm clothing for cold weather, for jackets, coats, blankets, socks, fine trousers, etc.  Wool does require dry cleaning for the most part, or hand-washing and no machine drying to prevent shrinkage.  It wears well and can last for years.

Photo Credit - Better Homes & Gardens/Meredith 2008

Linen comes from the fibers of the flax plant.  Certain varieties of the flax plant also provide food and nutritious oils from their seed heads, and the leaves are the source of the fibers.  These fibers are beaten, then carded to align the fibers, then spun into thread and woven into fabric.

Linen is useful in fabrics for decorating, for lightweight garments in hot climates.   For dressy clothing it has a sheen that is quite entrancing.  Linen is not very easy to care for – requires dry cleaning, and wrinkles very easily so it must be ironed frequently.  It also does not take dye well, so colors tend to be muted.  Clothing made with linen should be loosely constructed with a minimum of fitting seams.  It should also not be folded in storage to avoid breaking these fragile fibers.

Silkworm cocoons from Thailand

Silk comes from the cocoons of a particular type of moth.  When the caterpillars go into the pupae stage and spin their cocoons prior to becoming moths, these cocoons are taken and soaked in hot water and unwound.  This super-fine strand is spun with others into thread.  What is commonly known as raw silk contains clumps of cocoon material and multiple strands of cocoon threads.  The finest silk is made only from the center threads of the cocoon and is spun from only 4-6 strands of the cocoon.  This gives it the fine texture and sheen that is so prized.

Raw silk garments can be safely hand-washed in cold water and dried but the finer silk garments should be dry-cleaned only to preserve the fine texture and colors.  These garments are fairly easy to care for other than that.  Designers particularly like the draping characteristics of silk. Wearability and durability give silk a high rating for longevity that made it very desirable in the past when garments were worn for decades due to cost.

Bamboo has recently come to the forefront of natural plant materials to be used in garments.  It is prepared similarly to linen.  The bamboo is pounded to get the fibers into a soft and separated state, then it is spun and woven into threads and yarns for fabrics.  Bamboo is a difficult plant to cultivate, and there are certainly some issues with it as far as it being the only food available for the endangered Giant Panda, as well as the overexploitation of this plant for the chopstick market.  Bamboo is also being used for the US flooring market and that is adding to concerns about its viability as a renewable resource.

Bamboo fabric is similar to linen but has a softer texture and does not wrinkle as much due to the longer length of the fiber and the finer fiber itself.  It also seems to take to dye better and has a richer range of color possibilities although very bright colors are still not  possible with this fabric.  Bamboo fabric should also be dry cleaned.

Bamboo plant

Image from AfricanTropicalHeritage.com with thanks.

I will be dealing with the aspects of synthetic fabrics in my next post.  The issues around the subject of choosing natural vs synthetic fabrics are not as simple as they seem.  Hopefully with this information, you will be able to make those choices in a more informed way.

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